We are always happy here at BoomerCafé when Boomer Wisdom (note the Capitalization of these important words) shows itself in spades. That’s why we were happy just the other day to hear from our old friend Mike Petrie of Laguna Niguel, California, a lawyer, author, and surfer (yes, you read that right) who has turned a little wiser in all his years. This time, it’s his baby boomer’s perspective on the Southern California surf.
I remember, several years ago, being awakened at 3:00 in the morning by what sounded like the loud roar of cannon fire; it actually shook my house a little.
But it wasn’t from a cannon; it was huge breakers crashing onto the shore outside my home. In the pitch black of night I got out of bed and turned on the TV surf report, where they talked about 10 to 20 footers. I anxiously awaited the sun to rise so I could head out on the sand to check out these monster waves for myself.
That was a day surfers still refer to as BIG WEDNESDAY, and tales are still told of paddling out into some of the biggest waves Southern California beaches had seen in decades.
I was among them back then. Well, lo and behold, Hurricane Marie, down south in Mexico, is currently dishing out series after series of aquatic behemoths here on our local shores … treating us to an entire week of Big Wednesdays. Cowabunga Dude!
[Mike's book - You're the Only One I Can Trust - is available at Amazon.com]
But with age should come, at least, a modicum of wisdom. I have a real respect for the power of the ocean. As Clint Eastwood’s character Dirty Harry once famously said, “A man has to know his limitations.” I’ve been surfing since my teens, but I know when to paddle out and when to just sit on the beach and watch.